Hanbok: Korea’s Cultural Treasure

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Since the emergence of the Korean Wave, fans worldwide have started to notice the hanbok, a traditional attire commonly worn by Korean performers and musicians. Characterized by its long flowing sleeves and high-waisted skirt, this elegant and relaxed outfit has been produced in Korea for over two thousand years, and in recent times has become a worldwide craze.

Inspired by both Chinese and native Korean styles, the hanbok was pioneered during the Three Kingdoms period (57 BC – 668 AD). It consisted of the same upper garment for men and women: the jeogori (a jacket without pockets or buttons). However, for the lower garment, women wore the chima (skirt) while men donned the baji (pants).

In the Goryeo Dynasty (918 – 1392), Mongolian influences changed the hanbok, resulting in a shorter jeogori tied with a ribbon and curved sleeves. The Joseon Kingdom (1392-1897) modified the hanbok once more: the women’s clothes became shorter and tighter, and the jeogori was worn much higher than the waist (however, this trend was reversed in the mid-20th century).

Traditional hanboks feature vibrant shades of white, red, blue, black, and yellow, which respectively correspond with the elements of the five-element theory: metal, fire, wood, water, and earth. In the past, the color and material of hanboks signified one’s social status. Upper-class citizens wore different colored hanboks made from high-grade lightweight materials like plant-based cloth during warmer months, while working-class citizens were restricted to white cotton hanboks. Today, hanboks are typically worn at significant family events (weddings and funerals) or during Korean holidays such as Seolal (Korean New Year) or Chuseok (Korean Thanksgiving Day). This tradition is because of bim—adorning oneself with new clothes for holidays or parties.

In recent decades, modernized hanbok designs inspired by Western and other fashion influences have appeared. They come in many hues, from the brightest pinks to the darkest purples, marking a stark contrast to the five traditional hanbok colors. Moreover, contemporary denim and gingham fabrics have been integrated into the latest hanbok designs, presenting a casual, comfortable side of the clothing.

Innovative fashion designers have conceived fresh twists on the hanbok. In 2020, hanbok designer Kim Danha garnered attention for her hanbok-inspired jackets used in K-pop group Blackpink’s music video, “How You Like That.” Others have gone viral for combining the traditional hanbok and contemporary outfits, pairing the jeogori with jeans or the chima with a blazer.

Although the hanbok may continue to change, it will always have its unique cultural and historical value. Above all, keeping hanbok in the modern culture shows the evolution of Korean style throughout history and honors a rich Korean heritage.