Gion Matsuri: A Festival Beyond Parades

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Ding! Ding! Ding! Chimes of poetic music ring throughout downtown Kyoto! Amid a busy crowd, a noticeable procession of floats marches through. Meticulously carved dragons adorn the sides of a golden ship-like float, on which dozens of musicians sing and dance (see image on right). As traditionally dressed performers guide the eye-catching sights, a film of Japan’s historical past is played on Kyoto’s streets…

Held through the full month of July, Gion Matsuri is one of the most famous festivals in Japan and is a long-established tradition in Kyoto. It originally began as a practice to ward off disease: in 869 AD, Emperor Seiwa (850-881AD) ordered prayers to the gods of the Yasaka Shrine to stop the ongoing epidemic in Kyoto. This practice was repeated whenever an outbreak of plague occurred and became an annual observance in 970 AD.

After evolving over decades, Gion Matsuri is now best known for Yamaboko Junkō— float parades taking place on the 17th and 24th of July. During these parades, a combined total of 33 decorated floats take a three-kilometer path along the Shijo, Kawaramachi, and Oike streets, drawing the eyes of those around them.

These floats come in two types—Hoko and Yama. All of the Hoko floats have multiple stories, are up to 25 meters tall, and weigh over 12 tons (see below images. However, only six out of the ten Hoko floats have an ornamented central pole. Better known as shingi, the pole was originally meant to summon the Plague Gods to act as a protective spirit.

The Yama floats, on the other hand, are generally smaller and do not include a shingi but are still attractive to crowds nonetheless. On many Yama floats, the shingi in the middle is replaced by a pine tree, symbolizing connections between the people, their culture and treasured natural resources.

The grand floats are not just superficial spectacles but are also an integral part of a Kyoto custom. The head Hoko boat carries a child who is considered a chigo (representative God).
This boy stays on the float alone from the time he steps on (June 13th), to the end of the procession(June 17th). During this time as a “divine messenger,” the boy prays for the safety of everyone for the coming season and cuts a sacred rope at the float procession, which symbolizes the breaking of the barrier between people and the gods.

In the days leading up to the float parades, events including shrine visits, lantern parades, and Mikoshi Arai (cleansing of shrines with sacred water) take place; furthermore, downtown Kyoto becomes reserved solely for pedestrian traffic, allowing night booths to open up and sell a variety of street foods, including taiyaki, takoyaki, and yakitori.

Attracting both locals and visitors, Gion Matsuri’s cultural significance and lively ambiance make it one of Japan’s most popular festivals. Although this year’s festivities have been scaled down to meet pandemic-based restrictions, spirits are still high all over the Japanese community, especially in Kyoto. Hopefully, Gion Matsuri will soon be experienced at full capacity, as it’s a great opportunity to immerse oneself in Japanese culture.